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Slacklinebänder erklärt

! Bitte beachte immer unsere Hinweise und den Haftungsauschluss für die Nutzung der Artikelinhalte !


Das Angebot an Slacklinebändern ist mittlerweile sehr reichhaltig und es ist mitunter nicht leicht alle Unterschiede und Eigenschaften zu verstehen. Wir möchten hier einen Überblick über das Thema geben und dich bei der richtigen Auswahl deines Slackline-, Longline- oder Highlinebandes unterstützen. Wenn du Fragen zum Thema hast kannst du gerne die Kommentarfunktion unter dem Artikel verwenden.


  1. Werkstoffe
  2. Dehnung
  3. Breite
  4. Bruchlast
  5. Gewicht
  6. Abriebbeständigkeit und Schnittfestigkeit
  7. Gewebestruktur
  8. Kantendesign
  9. Verschleiß
  10. Beschichtung
  11. Farbe
  12. Qualitätskontrolle
  13. Empfehlungen



Slacklinebänder bestehen aus robusten Verbunden von Hunderten von Garnen. Diese Garne sind aus einzelnen Fasern gemacht, die auch Filamente genannt werden. Je nach Werkstoff und Eigenschaften des Garns und der Webstruktur ändern sich die Charakteristiken der Slackline. Im Folgenden findest du einen Überblick über die relevanten Eigenschaften der am meisten verwendeten Garnmaterialien.



Polyamide, Nylon (PA)


Polyester (PES)


Dyneema (HMPE)


The standard material for climbing ropes and slings. Slacklines out of polyamide are known to be very stretchy. This makes walking them harder at first but they develop awesome dynamics for bounces and surfs.

Nowadays often used for beginner lines, because the lower stretch make them easier and faster to rig. Especially when getting into longlining, the movements of polyester slacklines are often easier to control than polyamide lines.

Has an excellent weight to strength ratio, but it is very sensitive to high temperatures and very expensive to make. We developed the first ever Dyneema Slackline (Aeon) in 2010 to realise several record projects. The special characteristics lead to expert use only.

Break-Stretch (%) 16 - 27 10 - 16  3,8
Abrasion Resistance good good very good
Yarn-Strength (CN/dtex) 7 - 8 7 - 8,4 28 - 38
Specific Weight (kg/dm3) 1,14 1,38 0,96
Strength Loss Through Moisture (%) 5-10 0


Absorption Of Water (%) 1-7 0,5 - 2


UV - Resistance good very good very good
Maximum Temperature Short Term Influence (°C) 130 225 70
Melting Temperature (°C) 215 260 150
 Examples Sonic 2, T-Wave, Matrix, Wave Unicorn, White Magic  Aeon



When slacklines are tensioned they elongate. They also shorten again after detensioning. More than other properties the stretch of a webbing determines the dynamic behaviour of a slackline. Basically it can be said that polyamide is more stretchy than polyester, looser woven webbings stretch more than ones with tighter weave and webbings with a higher break strength stretch less than lighter ones. Here are two examples:

White magic (PES) has a stretch of 5% at 10kN. So 5 m of way have to be pulled out of a 100 m line to reach 10 kN.

Sonic 2 (PA) has a stretch of 15% at 10kN. So 15 m of way have to be pulled out of a 100 m line to reach 10 kN.

That means that tensioning high stretch webbings like Sonic 2 requires a longer tensioning system, like pulleys and more time, than low stretch webbings like White Magic. Also it will take more energy, that is than stored in the line until it is released. On the other hand high stretch webbings can absorb shock loads like jumps or leashfalls better, so that less peakforce arrives at the anchors.


Overview to compare the stretch of Landcruising webbings, depending on the tension

Recommendation: Low-stretch and PES webbings are perfect if you want something easy and fast to rig, if you want to push your personal best or just do really long lines. High-stretch and PAD webbings are made for better dynamics when walking or just playing around. Tensioning very long lines with them can be quite laborious, but you will be rewarded with the most fantastic bounce and surf. On short highlines only high-stretch webbings should be used, since they absorb the shock loads better. If you can not decide between the two, the Unicorn line is closing this gap quite well since the stretch is pretty much in the middle of the two.



Slackline webbings are available in different widths. The standard-Slackline width is 25 mm. Most webbings anchors and webbings grabs are designed for this width and it has proven to be a good feeling under the feet, while not making the webbings too heavy or too thin. When starting with slacklining it may be a bit unpleasant under the feet, but you get used to it in no time. Some beginner lines are sold in 50 mm width but tend to wobble around the ankle and of course add a lot of weight to your kit. Thats why we chose the compromise of 35 mm for our beginner kits.

Recommendation: Be careful with the exact widths of the lines. Some companies sell slackline webbing that is more like 26mm wide. This may sound like not a big difference, but you will find out when you try to put a 26 mm webbing in a 25 mm weblock, when pretensioning gets worse.



It can have disastrous consequences if a webbing breaks, so webbings have to be considerably strong. For longlines we recommend that the line shall be four times stronger than the load it will see while walking the line. Keep in mind that strong winds, bounces and leashfalls will add load on the webbing while ageing, humidity and all webbing anchors reduce the strength of the webbing (find more infos about the strength of webbing anchors here). Especially for webbings with low breaking strength it is advised to use efficient weblocks. Many people are tensioning their lines less these days, so that it could be assumed that less break strength of a webbing is needed. It should still be considered that leashfalls, especially on short and low-stretch (static) lines, lead to high peak forces. Lower break strength also indicates a shorter lifespan of webbings and even more importantly: a lower cut resistance (see below).


Recommendation: Find the working load limit in the "Properties-Tab" on our product pages of the webbings. Use the calculation in the orange box above to find out your required WLL. If you compare with other brands always check if they use the same safety factor or compare the break strength.



Standard webbings (PES, PAD) have a weight between 55 and 70 g per meter. Everything lighter is probably not strong enough for highlining and everything heavier is probably overkill. One thing to consider here is the weight of your backpack when hiking to your spot. Another thing are the dynamics while walking. Lighter lines are often easier to walk since less mass has to be controlled and the movements have less powerful oscillations. Movements on heavier lines, on the other hand, are stronger but also slower. At a certain skill level this can be more fun than the hectic oscillations of lighter lines and for training purposes people are even rigging multiple layers of webbing to get super heavy lines.

Recommendation: If you don't do crazy alpine lines with a super hard access its probably best to not take the lightest webbings out there, they just don't last as long and offer a lower safety margin.


Abrasion- and Cutting-Resistance


Webbing after a long and intense abrasion test. The results where impressive. Sonic 2 turned out to be one of the most abrasion resistant slackline webbings.

Depending on the material, the quality of the fibres, the weave structure and the coating, slackline webbings are more or less resistant to abrasion. Abrasion occurs bit by bit over time when webbing rubs over rocks, trees, dirt, shoes, leash rings or other webbings and ropes. Basically it can be said that a finer and tighter weave of the surface and a good coating make webbing more durable. Also the general construction of the webbing makes a big difference. 

Another factor is the resistance of a webbing to be cut, for example if a sharp rock falls onto the line from above. A tensioned webbing or rope is much easier to cut than an untensioned. Proper padding can help a lot, and it is important to rig slacklines always in a way that they can never get close to sharp edges. A safe practice implements to not use very thin webbings, as they are less resistant to cutting. The more yarns the webbing contains the longer it takes to cut through.

Recommendationn: If you already know that you will use your webbing a lot in rough terrain, a core-sheath construction is definitely the choice that will survive the longest time. 


Webbing Structure

Core-Sheath Webbings Flat Webbings Tubular Webbings
Landcruising-Slacklines-Unicorn-Slackline-Webbing-03-min Landcruising-Slacklines-White-Magic-Slackline-Webbing-01 Landcruising-Slacklines-Wave-25-Slackline-Webbing-blue-purple-03

Super durable construction. Adapts the "Kern-Mantel" principle of climbing ropes and is therefore the most bomber solution for webbing and lasts for a very long time. Manufacturing is quite complicated and therefore more expensive. Examples: Unicorn, Sonic 2

The solid standard. Flat webbings differ in the amount of layers but they are mostly relatively long lasting but do not ofter the extra safety of core-sheath webbings. Then again they are easier to produce, and thus more affordable. Examples: White Magic, Verve

This is what slacklining started with. Tubes are not the most durable webbing construction, but we still love them for their fantastic dynamics and the softness of the edges. Furthermore they can be threaded, to add a layer of safety. Examples: Wave, T-Wave, Matrix


Edge Design

For walking barefoot and catching the line it is important that the edge of the webbing is not too sharp. Generally thinner webbings are sharper than thicker ones, except for tubular webbings that are always quite soft and flexible. Webbings with a more rectangular like cross-section feel sharper than webbings with the maximum radius that the thickness allows. A good example is our Sonic 2. (picture below) Modern sophisticated webbings like our Unicorn are designed to have even softer Edges. That is done by a special weaving structure that creates an edge that is stable when walking the line, while caving in gently when catching the line.


Cross section of Sonic 2 webbing that shows how the roundness is maximised to what the thickness allows.

Recommendation: Standart flat webbings are cool for getting into the sport, or if you are walking with shoes - If you slackline a lot and if you do formes of slacklining that include catching your hands will be happy if you decide for the softer to touch slackline webbings like Sonic 2 or Unicorn.



Webbings loose breaking strength over time. This has mainly to do with abrasion, especially if the webbing gets in contact with dirt (sand, mud,...). It works like sandpaper and if it gets inside the webbing, these mirco crystals can increase inner abrasion. This effect may not be visible. Walking with shoes and particularly slipping of the line and turning will lead to faster wear on slacklines. Checking your soles for little stones and dirt before going on the line may increase the lifetime of your webbing significantly.

Another thing is that every time you tensioning and untensioning a slackline it gets a tiny little bit less stretchy. This effect is mostly noticeable with new webbings in the first rigs. UV-light in a normal amount is not super critical, but leaving lines up for a long time is definitely not the best practice, also because of other environmental influences like rain, storms and lightnings.



Webbings can be treated with coating. This can make webbings more abrasion resistant and a bit water repelling. But coatings also change the grip under the food. Especially when coated webbings are really wet from rain or waterlining, they can be very slippery.




The color of a slackline is not only a matter of aesthetics, it gains visibility also if it contrasts the background well. If you care about untwisting the line while rigging, it makes a huge difference also if the two sides are easily distinguishable, even from afar.

Recommendation: Something to look for when buying slacklines is the quality of the color. Best option here are webbings that are made out of yarn that is dyed directly in the spinnerets.


Quality Control

Since there is no certificates or standardised test for slackline webbings, everybody has to trust the manufacturers about the properties and the quality control of their slackline. Every meter of webbing that we sell at Landcruising is checked visually from both sides for weaving mistakes and we do tests on the strength and the abrasion resistance of our webbings regularly. 



We would recommend that you try out as many different webbings as you have access to. Things like the softness of the edge, the dynamic behaviour and the abrasion resistance are hard to compare via the internet. Here are some basic tips to help with your decision:

  • Beginner: If you are completely new to slacklining, and not sure how much time you will spend with it, you should get a simpel ratchet kit with a 35 mm wide slackline. Its very easy to setup, light to carry and optimised for fast start with slacklining.
  • Ambitious Beginner: If you tried slacklining already a bit and know that you will have the time and motivation go often get a 25mm polyester line. They are perfect to learn walking longer lines, and the medium stretch allows for a fast setup.
  • Longliner: If you are longlining already, and your polyester webbing bores you, there is the polyamide. Make sure your pulley rope is long enough, and you will see a whole new world of dynamics. And have you tried tubulars already? Check what Philipp says about them: Tubelicious
  • Highline Beginner: Strong polyamide like Sonic 2 or T-Wave for everything short. Never rig a 20 meter highline on polyester. Its to big shock loads and so hard to catch and leashfall.
  • Experienced Highliner: Why are you reading this? Get your 200 m piece of Sonic and go out and play!



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